Saturday, October 14, 2006
Friday, September 08, 2006
Sunday, September 03, 2006
Wednesday, August 02, 2006
2006 World Champs
Last night was the official opening of the world champs and after the speeches the CZ's put on a wonderful display of music and timed water features in their famous Krizik's Fountain. The fountain was timed to a CZ composers music and as the cresendoes built so did the water released from the fountain jets and fireworks displayed in time as well truly spectacular. Real water ballet. This was preceeded by a data show projected of past World events onto a sheet or wall of water so all the images shimmered and moved just awe inspiring. The competition is heating up with racing starting Thursday. All the athletes are looking good and now just need to do it on the day
Saturday, July 29, 2006
Prague World Champs
Prague Gardens and Town Clock
The aerial water closets
Yesterday the heavens opened with an amazing electrical thunderstorm, forked ligthning and tremendous crashes of thunder shook the skies and the temperature dropped 15 degrees in a few minutes a welcome relief after the searing heat of the last few weeks. Today is still cooler 27 degrees so Les and I went exploring the old hunting forests of the King a wonderful green belt reserve in central Prague aboout 80 hectares. We had planned on being lazy and catching the cable car up to the top but when we arrived it was out of action for three months so footpower prevailed. The breeze and the shade of the old trees and the meandering paths were a welcome change from the crowds in the main tourist areas in the town. A tiny squirrel came up to us but we were too slow to get a photo. We wandered around for a few hours heading down towards the river and watched the clock tower perform its magic on the hour, explored the old( prior to 1300AD) and new town ( 1300AD on) before heading back to our apartment and the boys. The boys escaped to the local Irish Pub to watch the AB beat the Aussies. Catching the tram was great and to collapse exhausted into the seats was soooo good.
Thursday, July 27, 2006
Prague Castle
I went with Mike to help sort out a 10000km check for the Peugot, a requirement for the Eurolease. I’m amazed at how good these kids are driving around in strange cities and understanding and making themselves understood in a non-english speaking city. Imagine finding the address of the Peugot dealership in Prague, actually finding the premises, explaining what is required, booking in and getting the work done. I must admit we had a little help from some English speaking Czechs.
Took two hours sorting the car then with Mike’s friend Julia headed by tram back into Prague to the Castle, Cathedral and Bridge. The highlight was the climbing of the tower in the cathedral. All 287 spiraling steps to the top with no ventilation, and literally thousands of tourists going both up and down. The views from the top were great, all over Prague and worth the climb.
With time running out it was a rush through the narrow streets and ever increasing numbers of tourists over the famous Charles Bridge, back to the tram stop and to the kayak site to video the boys training session. We are managing the public transport system pretty well now and were back only 5 minutes late.
The atmosphere at the course continues to grow with more teams taking advantage of the free training slots and the stands etc being erected.
A full day was had in the Prague heat so we were relieved to get back to our relatively cool apartment and crash until the next day.
Wednesday, July 26, 2006
Prague
Ceske Krumlov
Once again on the road early as we wanted to explore the south CZ lakes areas. The roads were dressed in canopies of leaves nestled in valleys and winter ski areas. The lakes were disappointing small, the water muddy looking and crowded with campers but very picturesque. After a couple of stops we headed on towards Ceske Krumlov the UNESCO heritage town. Arriving still in the relative cool on the morning was the thing to do as the town wasn’t crowded, exploring and meandering around the medieval town was lovely. The town is surrounded by water with the focus the church on the rise. Treading over century old cobbles, down winding alleyways and under grapevines just put us in a time warp. As we left the crowds were arriving and the temperature climbing. As Mike had been very unwell we decided to head to Prague and do the TLC. Driving into Prague was a lot easier this time as even a little familiarity helps. We found the boys and accommodation without hassles and now a couple of days later and some cooked meals they are all looking better and feeling more onto it. Helena and George who own the apartments have grandchildren in Cromwell so their English is great and the boys were initially meet on there first stay here with a’ what’s up” to their ‘hey’ from a 9 year old visiting his grandparents which took them back.
Les and I headed into Prague city to walk Charles Bridge and enjoy the city. Julia from Germany turned up and she is staying until Friday and giving a hand with video and timing. She is going to Prague castle today with us before we have to be back for the training session. The intensity for the World Champs is staring to well and truly build and the course and facilities are looking tremendous.
Travelling North What a Day
We started early 6 am with a last swim in the Adriatic Sea even then it was about 29 degrees, a haze over the hills and the water just heaven. After a quick breakfast we headed north deciding as we were short on Croatian kone we wouldn’t buy any supplies and wait until we hit Slovenia or Austria and Euros again. First mistake. Sunday everything in Slovenia and Austria was closed. Second mistake. The tolls on the motorway were twice what we had budgeted so all our small euro coins and kone were then gone and still one more toll to go. With 3 euros in total in small money we decided to risk the toll on the next motorway. At this stage we had once again searched every pocket for change as knew no-one was going to exchange large euro notes at the tolls. As we drew up to the toll the queue was about 300metres long and as our turn came and we tried to give the cashier our change his manner became more abrupt, we couldn’t understand a word as he yelled at us and then we tried to give him a 100 Euro note. In the end he shrugged his shoulders, waved us on scowling at us as we drove through. As we have a euro lease vehicle most people think we are French for better or worse. Now nine hours later we are stuck on the autobahn in kilometers of traffic due to an accident, no food but now have euros and no exits to get off the motorway and find somewhere to stay to top it all off the temps have changed from 37 degrees to 19 degrees and the rain is pouring down and lightning flashing. Welcome to Austria.
Now a few hours on the sun is shining and the autobahn has cleared and we have found a pension for the night and directly opposite is the most spectacular field of sunflowers.
Sunday, July 23, 2006
Drage
After two nights in Trstenik, we regrettably headed north again hoping to find a place to stay on the Croatian Rivera. On the way we passed a medieval stone embattlement complete with turrets and walls built up and around a hill at a place called Ston. It appeared to have absolutely no strategic significance but Les just had to climb it. It was probably about 600meters up and in parts the gradient was 30-40 degrees. A central tower was at the top, with amazing views around the countryside. Well worth the climb but at 40+ degree temperatures it was definitely an effort.
Continued on our way to find accommodation for the night. Life in Croatia closes between about 2 and 4 each day due mainly to the heat. Had difficulty finding any pensions to rent around Dragnice where we stayed on the way down so headed further north stopping at Drage where we found a great waterfront place again. The water is only about 10 paces from our room. Drage is a little fishing village about half way between Split and Zadar. It has about 10 houses down on the water level, several areas for camping, restaurants, bars and several jetties. The water is as flat as a pancake waterskiing heaven. How fabulous it would be to have a fizz boat over here. We will stop here for two days of R and R before the trip north to Prague which could be tough after the beaches of Croatia.
Found a fabulous traditional restaurant meal last night where they served roast lamb cooked over a spit. Large chunks of meat were served enough for half a dozen people with fries and the best salad ever covered in olive oil, salt and vinegar. It actually had green lettuce, very difficult to get here. Left with extremely full stomachs and a large doggy-bag of lamb for the next day’s lunch.
Tomorrow we head for Austria and a couple of nights in the Alps hopefully in a little village by a lake where we can hire a couple of bikes and sample the great food and vino.
Trstenik
We headed south out of Dubrovnik thinking we would stay somewhere on the coast. Made the mistake of deciding to visit the newly independent Montenegro which declared its independence in May this year. Three hours of unfriendly border control in high temps nearly made us lose it. We did head over the border visiting the first town and having a quick visit to a touristy beach, bakery and petrol station before heading back to Croatia. We know we didn’t do the new country justice but with its poorer roads, high density slum apartments, mad drivers, madder parking and lack of signage we just wanted out back to Croatia.
Stopped off at Cavtat definitely worth a visit a mini Dubrovnik minus the crowds wandered around and had the obligatory beer under an umbrella before heading north. Les had a desire to go out to Orebic at the end of a peninsula. We took a wrong turning and ended up on the peninsula in a small village of about 30 houses and 6 restaurants right on the waterfront. Have a lovely room overlooking the water and within 50 metres of the water, restaurants and bars. This place is the mooring spot for a flotilla of yachts. Instead of church bells last night we listened to the clanging of metal on masts.
Took the ferry today to the Mljet national park to bike amongst the pines (rather stunted compared to NZ pines) and around the two salt water lakes. In the middle of the lakes is a Benedictine Monastery dating back to the 12th C. We still can’t get used to the charges to enter the national parks in Croatia but the cost is supposed to go towards improving the parks. Swam, walked, biked, drank more beer and caught the ferry back to our village arriving just as the sun was disappearing behind the hills a welcome relief after the heat of the day. The village has vineyards dotted on what seems to us inaccessible land but the locals are world famous for their wines and they are GOOD.
Les had a swim across the small harbour while I was writing this. Finished the day with a lovely meal at the waterfront restaurant and a few glasses of vino. Kay had the best Carbonara ever. What a great day.
Tuesday, July 18, 2006
The Old City Wall Walk
Started early this morning to walk round the wall of the old city of Dubrovnik before it got too hot. Took about two hours and the views were out of this world. The camera was running red hot as no sooner was one photo taken than round the next corner was an even better shot.
The wall surrounding the total old city was built between 13th and 16th century as protection against attack from either land or sea. It’s about 2.5kms around with numerous vantage points for the views. The old city is occupied by several thousand residents and from the wall you can look into their backyards etc.
After the wall walk we headed out off the old city and had a lovely walk through what looked like the Botanical gardens. Void of tourists but lovely under the trees looking back at the old city and the sea.
Our accommodation above the old city is great for the views but the price you pay is 386 steps from the town to home-base. A bit of an exhausting marathon uphill after the preceding it with 4 hours of walking.
Crashed for a siesta and headed back in town for a swim. Great feeling swimming in the sea looking across to the old town and the wall that we had walked that morning. We are enjoying the activities like this that are away from the tourist masses.
Before heading back to the pension we stopped for a beer and wine looking across at the entrance to the old town and enjoyed the refreshments watching the time of day passing and the numerous people from all the differing nationalities passing by.
Back to the pension after a tiring but fantastic day and had interesting discussions with a couple from Macedonia which is apparently a country that was part of the old Yugoslavia. We must admit we had to ask where this country was in the world???
Dinner at 10pm, vino and overlooking the ocean and old town now means a hunt for aircon and bed
Monday, July 17, 2006
View from our balcony Drevnik
Dubrovenik
Just arrived in Dubrovenik, the old walled city which has fought off invaders over the centuries by forming an alliance with the pirates to keep out the Turks and Venetians and is almost from the exterior rebuilt after the bombings of 1995. We have found a room ( just from a hawker on the street) with aircon, kiwi friut vines and panaramic view overlooking the old city and will walk down this evening when the temps are lower as it is all uphill on the way back and about 36 degrees at present. The landscape on the drive down only 40-80kms p hr changed dramatically from the other regions and I could imagine myself transported into the days of sailing merchants and pirates. Croatia is amazing and Les and I have fallen in love with the people and the place.
Heading south Trogir, Split, Drvenik
The morning heat was once again sending us fast for the aircon and the trip south. Our first stop was Trogir (a UNESCO world heritage site) a medieval village pop 1600 built on a small island accessed by a stone causeway a true living museum but complete with thousands of other tourists who had also discovered it. As we had had an early start we weren’t caught in the traffic jam which stretched for kms when we were leaving Trogir. Worth a stop with its city walls, embattlements, narrow alleyways and hawkers, markets and cafes everywhere.
Split-well known for its walled city was also a maaaaad house with tourists queuing for ferry rides, hawkers and souvenir shops. We went in search of the famous toe of the bishop Gregorius of Nin statue. As legend says if you rub his toe you obtain eternal good luck. Of course we did the rub of his big toe which is worn golden with the rubbing over the centuries. Restoration work is in progress and people still live in the walled city the dungeon area was great with its large stoned walls and soooo cool after the outside heat.
Driving toward Dubrovnik the traffic was worse than spaghetti junction in Auckland at rush hour- after three hours @ 15km/ph we gave up and started searching for accommodation.
Finally arrived at Drvenik, a smallish coastal town where we scored a waterfront apartment with aircon and promptly took off for a swim, rest and another swim. Sitting on the balcony overlooking the Adriatic Sea with a glass of vino- life is good.!!
Friday, July 14, 2006
Worth Every Drop of Sweat-Paklenica National Park
Paklenica National ParkTrek
Started early this morning with our tramping shoes, and trusty drink bottles to trek through the canyons up to limestone caves in the Park. The information at the Park Office said approx 1.5hours each way but it was more like 2 and a bit. The way in was up hill the entire way on well formed cobble stoned track. Initially we had a good tree cover for shade but we soon climbed out off it and the temperature rose to 35-40 degree. We were sure pleased that we had started early.
This park is one off the worlds best for rock climbing and we saw numerous groups of people hanging off ropes on the sheer cliff faces 100’s of metres off the ground.
The park scenery is breathtaking with its rising cliff faces, steep gorges, slabs of massive rocks and shady picturesque paths and gentle flowing streams. This park would be more like the Grand Canyon in the US.
The trip to the cave was rather exhausting but we made it only to find the generator was not working and therefore no lights in the cave so no one could enter. This gave us a good chance for lunch and to meet and chat with some fellow tourists from France, Holland, Germany and Israel. The lights back on and we descended into the caves which were magnificent and well worth the trek. Large stalactites and stalagmites and formations in shades of red hues. Totally different to the caves back in NZ. We went from 35-40 degrees heat outside to something like 5-8 degrees inside.
Now for the trek back down. The temperature had increased because it was now around midday but we were heading down. Passed several rather tired, red faced sweaty people still on their trek up. All asking us as to how much further to go. Thank god we started early. The trek down however was by no means easy. You had to be pretty sure footed stepping from cobbled rock to rock. They were all smooth and slippery and you could go over on you ankle pretty easily.
Safely down we headed straight for the Adriatic Sea a mere one kilometer away for the much needed plunge in to cool off and regenerate before the next adventure. We were both stuffed but had only explored a small fraction of the parks 96 square kilometres
Started early this morning with our tramping shoes, and trusty drink bottles to trek through the canyons up to limestone caves in the Park. The information at the Park Office said approx 1.5hours each way but it was more like 2 and a bit. The way in was up hill the entire way on well formed cobble stoned track. Initially we had a good tree cover for shade but we soon climbed out off it and the temperature rose to 35-40 degree. We were sure pleased that we had started early.
This park is one off the worlds best for rock climbing and we saw numerous groups of people hanging off ropes on the sheer cliff faces 100’s of metres off the ground.
The park scenery is breathtaking with its rising cliff faces, steep gorges, slabs of massive rocks and shady picturesque paths and gentle flowing streams. This park would be more like the Grand Canyon in the US.
The trip to the cave was rather exhausting but we made it only to find the generator was not working and therefore no lights in the cave so no one could enter. This gave us a good chance for lunch and to meet and chat with some fellow tourists from France, Holland, Germany and Israel. The lights back on and we descended into the caves which were magnificent and well worth the trek. Large stalactites and stalagmites and formations in shades of red hues. Totally different to the caves back in NZ. We went from 35-40 degrees heat outside to something like 5-8 degrees inside.
Now for the trek back down. The temperature had increased because it was now around midday but we were heading down. Passed several rather tired, red faced sweaty people still on their trek up. All asking us as to how much further to go. Thank god we started early. The trek down however was by no means easy. You had to be pretty sure footed stepping from cobbled rock to rock. They were all smooth and slippery and you could go over on you ankle pretty easily.
Safely down we headed straight for the Adriatic Sea a mere one kilometer away for the much needed plunge in to cool off and regenerate before the next adventure. We were both stuffed but had only explored a small fraction of the parks 96 square kilometres
The Pag Island Excursion
Heading for Zadar we found this idyllic pension at Modric about 30 km out of Zadar on the waterfront and only 20 euro p/n. It was so relaxing allowing us to recuperate before attacking the big smoke of Zadar (pop approx 82000).
Next day we headed north to Prisna and the car ferry to Pag. The road was rugged, windy and very much in a state of repair. Road works were numerous. We are intrigued by the old ladies on the roadside selling unpasturised cheese, honeys etc. They must be hot in the 40 degree heat for hours. We stopped to purchase some of the delicious cheese but could not as they would only sell 1 kilo slabs. A bit much for only two travelers and it would go off so quickly in the heat. We had bought some goat cheese just 250gms from another area which was mellow, delicious and had a soft almost crumbly texture’ Just yum
Arrived at Prisna and before we knew it we are on the car ferry and off again on Pag Island. Pag Island has a landscape like Mars especially at the north end where we landed. No life exists at all. Kay was intrigued by the miles and mile of stone fences which appear to fence in nothing. No sight of animals anywhere. The southern end of the island had more life being some grass and plenty of weeds and the occasional grapevines and milking sheds
We were however surprised to get to the township of Pag located in the middle of this barren landscape and on the coast. There were literally thousands of tourists holidaying there. The stony not too pleasant beach was crowded, not a spare inch free. We moved on.
Drove the length of the island to a causeway back to the mainland and headed for Zadar. Walked the old city wall and the promenade, one of the best and had a refreshing and greatly deserved cold beer and lemon bitter on the waterfront watching the ferries going back and forth to the island of Ugljan, the kids jumping into the ocean from the small breakwater and the other tourists doing the same thing. The waiters do a great job waiting the tables in the 40 degree temps.
Returned to our oasis pension to put our feet up before a refreshing plunge into the cool clear ocean 5 m from our room. The water was cold and our pension people told us the top layer is fresh and feed from a 4000 ft spring in the hills. So relaxing with the buoyancy. You can lie on top of the water with no movement for hours and not sink.
Later that evening we were brought down a bottle of wine from the family vineyard to sample boy was it smooth only need one glass in this heat so plenty for tomorrow. Tonight there is a small cooling breeze!!Yeah.
Next day we headed north to Prisna and the car ferry to Pag. The road was rugged, windy and very much in a state of repair. Road works were numerous. We are intrigued by the old ladies on the roadside selling unpasturised cheese, honeys etc. They must be hot in the 40 degree heat for hours. We stopped to purchase some of the delicious cheese but could not as they would only sell 1 kilo slabs. A bit much for only two travelers and it would go off so quickly in the heat. We had bought some goat cheese just 250gms from another area which was mellow, delicious and had a soft almost crumbly texture’ Just yum
Arrived at Prisna and before we knew it we are on the car ferry and off again on Pag Island. Pag Island has a landscape like Mars especially at the north end where we landed. No life exists at all. Kay was intrigued by the miles and mile of stone fences which appear to fence in nothing. No sight of animals anywhere. The southern end of the island had more life being some grass and plenty of weeds and the occasional grapevines and milking sheds
We were however surprised to get to the township of Pag located in the middle of this barren landscape and on the coast. There were literally thousands of tourists holidaying there. The stony not too pleasant beach was crowded, not a spare inch free. We moved on.
Drove the length of the island to a causeway back to the mainland and headed for Zadar. Walked the old city wall and the promenade, one of the best and had a refreshing and greatly deserved cold beer and lemon bitter on the waterfront watching the ferries going back and forth to the island of Ugljan, the kids jumping into the ocean from the small breakwater and the other tourists doing the same thing. The waiters do a great job waiting the tables in the 40 degree temps.
Returned to our oasis pension to put our feet up before a refreshing plunge into the cool clear ocean 5 m from our room. The water was cold and our pension people told us the top layer is fresh and feed from a 4000 ft spring in the hills. So relaxing with the buoyancy. You can lie on top of the water with no movement for hours and not sink.
Later that evening we were brought down a bottle of wine from the family vineyard to sample boy was it smooth only need one glass in this heat so plenty for tomorrow. Tonight there is a small cooling breeze!!Yeah.
Thursday, July 13, 2006
Platavicka
Driving through to the lakes was really moving- the bullet holes, destruction and bombing of buildings still in evidence and the occasional scrawl across a deserted and partially destroyed home ‘Serbian’. The whole area is still quite depressed perhaps a sadness would be a better description and in some respects with the war only 10 years past in their recent history the memories and lose of life in communities must still be very fresh in their minds. There is a lot of new building going on and rebuilding but some houses are just as they would have been after the ravages of the war. We had taken a slightly wrong turn and were well into areas off the tourist track at this time. After four hours we found a major road or rather something better than an almost one car potted carriage way and headed for the UNESCO world heritage park at Platavicka, consisting of several lakes at various levels all flowing by waterfalls from the upper lakes to the lower lakes. , Extremely interesting, well worth it and well run with all ferry ride and two train trips included in the entry price. It took us about 4hours of solid walking to complete the round trip and just towards the end the heavens opened and the lightening flashed and thunder and we were drenched to the skin returning to our car a little more than wet and exhausted to head south to the coast. The bush was very much like the Redwoods and the lakes similar to Rotoma in Rotorua.
Kay’s navigation skills were excellent finding us a place just out of Zadar with water views and at an affordable price with cooking facilities. Will probably stay two or three days to check out the area as it is another national park area but this time canyons and rocky barren environs.
Life’s great. Having a tremendous trip. Not missing work at all. The Croatian people are lovely even with my inability to speak the language.
Brsec just out of Opatija
Brsec another great sobe ( zimmer/rooms) find on the hill tops overlooking the sea, we strolled down to the beach thinking it was only a short walk down from our accommodation 2.5 kms later we were in the water crystal clear ,warm and salty just wonderful and dreading the thought of 2.5 kms walk back up the hill. Found a tree with some small yellow fruit a cross between cumquats and yellow plums which all the locals were picking and eating so joined in. The fruit here is so fresh and has such strong flavours probably as it is all tree ripened no cool stores in sight!! After all that exercise (which the locals do on a regular basis as they were carrying groceries) ended up at the local pub for a drink and cool down. The next morning drove the car down to the beach we had wised up and had another swim. Leaving Brsec we explored the historic medieval village of Moscenicka narrow alleyways, entrances so small even I had to duck to walk through them and all perched on the hillside overlooking the bay. The church clock was in full force seems to be very much part of every village here.
Opatija dripped money, old hotels of a previous era perch above the walkway and we were stung well for parking. There is a 12km walk along the waterfront which needless to say in 37 degrees we didn’t finish opting instead for a swim after 2 hours. The coastline is rocky and crowded with people bathing on concrete sun-baking areas, the sun-burnt bodies, bums and boobs would have the NZ cancer society fuming.
Tuesday, July 11, 2006
Sv Ivan Fishing Village
What a find we traveled out from the resort towns and ended up in a traditional fishing village postcard perfect. Finding a reasonably priced apartment was the icing on the cake and a lovely restaurant for dinner over looking an ideallic bay. Only locals and a few tourists staying. Headed for a swim the water is crystal clear, warm and salty. No effort required just to laze on our backs as the water suspended us without any effort. Today heading for Opatija another resort town of the rich and famous.
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